Where Neapolitan pizza is taken most seriously, with wood-fired places along Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali turning out some of the most argued-over pies in the city. The eating here skews affordable, so you can sit down to a proper meal without the tourist-trap pricing that creeps in closer to the waterfront. Beyond pizza, the neighbourhood holds its own with solid trattorias doing straightforward Mediterranean cooking at the kind of prices that make a second course an easy decision.